In a recent video on actor Soha Ali Khan’s YouTube channel, celebrity hairstylist Yianni Tsapatori, who has worked with clients including Nita Ambani, Isha Ambani, and Deepika Padukone, highlighted the importance of proper washing techniques. He cautioned, “You’re not supposed to use very hot water when you’re washing your hair,” and advised people to “Rinse it off in cold water.” According to Yianni, while warm water may feel relaxing, it is important to “finish with a cold shower or rinse off conditioner and masks with colder water” to help maintain moisture and shine in the hair.
DISCLAIMER: This article is based on information from the public domain and/or the experts we spoke to. Always consult your health practitioner before starting any routine.
Beyond temperature, Yianni emphasised that many people may not be washing their hair effectively. “When washing your hair, the primary focus should be on cleansing the scalp using the tips of your fingers to massage the skin thoroughly,” he explained. He also pointed out a commonly neglected area, saying, “It is a common mistake to ignore the back of the head (the nape), so ensure you massage that area as well.”
The hairstylist further addressed the impact of environmental factors on hair quality. For people living in areas with hard water, mineral deposits can accumulate on the hair over time. “If you live in an area with hard water, using filtered or bottled water for the final rinse can help prevent mineral buildup that can make hair look dull and tired,” Yianni advised.
He also outlined a specific washing sequence: shampoo focused on the scalp, followed by a nourishing mask on the mid-lengths and ends, then conditioner to help seal hydration into the hair shaft. Combined with gentler drying practices, these steps are intended to support healthier-looking hair.
The science behind heat and hair damage
Dr Palleti Siva Karthik Reddy, Senior Consultant, Internal Medicine, and Founder, Elite Care Clinic, tells indianexpress.com, “To understand why hot water can be harmful, it helps to look at how water temperature interacts with the natural chemistry of the hair and scalp.”
He adds, “Hair is coated with a delicate, water-repellent lipid layer called 18-MEA (18-methyleicosanoic acid), along with natural sebum produced by the scalp. This protective layer helps retain moisture within the hair shaft and shields it from external humidity.”
Very hot water can strip away these protective oils, Dr Reddy notes, much like it removes grease from cookware.
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Dryness and frizz: Without its lipid barrier, the hair shaft becomes more porous, allowing moisture to escape quickly. Hot water can also cause the cuticle layer (the hair’s outer protective covering) to lift. In humid conditions, the raised cuticles absorb moisture from the environment, causing the hair shaft to swell unevenly and appear frizzy.
Breakage: When sebum is stripped away, friction between hair strands increases. Raised cuticles are more likely to snag and tangle, making hair prone to breakage during brushing or styling.
The ideal temperature: Cosmetic science research suggests that lukewarm water—around 38°C (100°F), close to body temperature—is best for washing hair. It effectively removes dirt, styling products, and excess oil without excessively stripping the protective lipid layer.
The cold-water rinse: Myth vs reality
According to Dr Reddy, the belief that cold water “seals” the hair cuticle is common, but the explanation is often oversimplified. Hair is made of dead tissue, so cuticles do not actively open and close in response to temperature.
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However, he states, cold water can still provide benefits. He further notes:
Warm-water swelling: When hair is exposed to warm water, it absorbs moisture and swells. This causes the overlapping cuticle scales to lift slightly.
The effect of cold water: A cold-water rinse does not force the cuticles shut. Instead, it limits further swelling, helps sebum remain on the hair shaft, and may improve the adherence of conditioning ingredients.
Shine and moisture retention: Reduced swelling allows the cuticle scales to lie flatter, creating a smoother surface that reflects light more evenly. This can make hair appear shinier and help retain moisture from conditioner.
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Adapting water temperature to different hair types
Different hair types and treatments respond differently to water temperature. Dr Reddy explains:
Colour-treated hair: Hot water can cause the hair shaft to swell and the cuticle to lift, allowing dye molecules to escape more easily. Frequent hot-water washing can make the colour fade faster. Use lukewarm water and finish with a cool rinse.
Chemically treated hair (relaxed or permed): Chemical treatments weaken the hair structure and increase porosity. Hot water can worsen swelling and contribute to breakage. Cool to lukewarm water is recommended.
Curly and coily hair: Natural oils have a harder time travelling down curly hair shafts, making this hair type more prone to dryness. Hot water can strip away limited moisture, leading to frizz and reduced curl definition. Wash with lukewarm water, use conditioner generously, and finish with a cool rinse.
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Straight and fine hair: Sebum travels more easily along straight hair, causing it to become oily more quickly. Slightly warmer (but not hot) water can help cleanse excess oil from the scalp. A cool rinse at the end can help maintain shine and smoothness.
DISCLAIMER: This article is based on information from the public domain and/or the experts we spoke to. Always consult your health practitioner before starting any routine.
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